Day 9 - Lago Cachorro to Coyhaique
February 8, 2008
Submitted by Pat
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Up in the cold dark of pre-dawn for coffee and breakfast. The pace was frenetic as guides took down tents and clients packed their gear. We loaded our gear onto the kayaks and began ferrying the slowest hikers across the lake to the trailhead. As soon as they loaded up, off they went on the hour trek back to the kayaks that we had left at the top of the cliff next to Lago Leon. I had slept badly the night before and my body was stiff and sore from the long hike. I reached the trailhead with the first light of dawn. Nancy, Don and I were in the middle of the pack for the walk back. We walked at a good pace and passed some folks. We were walking on a particularly gnarly rock field when I heard someone yell behind me. I turned in time to see Don (of Don and Ozella) tumbling down the hill, having stepped on a rock that rolled out from under him. From seeing the fall, I thought he might be badly injured and started hustling back over the rocks as Eduardo began moving toward him from the other side. But he got up, shook himself off and said he was unhurt. That was hard to believe - he was really lucky. We all were.
Once back at the cliff where the boats were stored, we changed into kayak clothes, repacked our gear into dry bags, loaded them on the boats, lowered the loaded boats down to the water, and started to paddle across to the first camp. Greg and I were the 3rd boat out. Just was we were retying some gear, it started to rain and the wind picked up. It was not an easy paddle to the camp and I was very glad to step on shore and be rid of the boats. I helped others land their boats, deflate them, and stow them in a pile, all the while rain pelting down. When everyone had landed, I repacked my gear from the dry back to my backpack. Roberto told us that the horses were running late and there was a good chance our backpacks would not arrive at the farm house in time to make the trip to Coyhaique with us so Don, Nancy and I decided not to take the chance and carry our gear on our backs.
We were the first to hit the trail for home. It felt good to be out of the boat and walking out the stiffness in my muscles. The trail, at least to start, was clear and flat and open and easy to follow. Nancy and I kept our rain gear and river shoes on because it rained on and off the whole way. Don changed out of his rain pants and put on hiking shoes. Unfortunately, he got pretty soaked. A lot of gear in my pack got wet and the pack itself got wet as well. My pack felt heavy and awkward and my legs felt heavy and tired and the walk went on and on. Everyone except Mary Anne passed us. But they were walking without their backpacks and we were humping ours. My back was killing me.
We finally crossed back through the glacial water of the river before arriving at the trailhead to meet the van and the truck. No van so we packed the truck and pulled a trailer over to stow all the gear. Six folks were going to have to wait for a ride when a Jeep showed up and the last of us piled in. I rode in the back of the truck, gripping the roll bar like I did on the way out. Don sat inside and Nancy was behind me. Back at the farm, we repacked our gear, loaded the bus, and sat down for another traditional Chilean meal called cazuela, which consisted of a potato, a chicken leg, and a quarter of an ear of corn on the cob sitting in a delicious broth. I ate with gusto.
The drive to Coyhaique went without a break. We were well ahead of schedule and arrived at the hotel around 7 pm. I couldn't find a comfortable position on the bus so sleep with not an option for me. Mostly I sat and looked at the scenery. I was pretty pissed when, during check in, I was told there was no single room for me and that I would have to room with Kate again. I needed some time by myself and I know Kate needed it too. But it was not to be, and I was feeling pretty much at the end of my patience so the issue really got under my skin. I wish it hadn't bothered me so much because it ended up coloring my evening.
We walked downtown to a restaurant where we had a long skinny table in a room by ourselves. A terrible arrangement, not conducive for group conversation. I was exhausted, angry, and I could feel myself closing up and withdrawing. It was a great relief to finally be able to say our good-byes and head back to the hotel. Despite our cramped, shared quarters it was great to sleep in a bed again.
Day 10 - Balmaceda to Puerto Montt to the Futaleufu
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